Monthly Archives: September 2009

Gareth Pugh / Spring 2010 / Paris Fashion Week

Gareth Pugh kicked off Paris Fashion Week with a foggy surprise at the Palais de Tokyo this morning. With Rihanna posted in the front row, Pugh presented 34 unisex looks worth of his most wearable pieces to date. Switching his palette from black and white to slight hues of gray, the collection saw a new direction for Spring. He expanded on his leather Owens-inspired jackets and leggings with slits, shreds, and snoods aplenty. The feathered headpieces added an Elizabethan slant to his otherwise scuffed apoco-star warrior. Much like yesteryear’s Theyskens for Ricci, Pugh flirted with witchy coats reminiscent of Hocus Pocus. It’s nice to watch the line grow into reality.

photos courtesy of WWD

In anticipation for Spike Jonze’s Where The Wild Things Are movie, Opening Ceremony came up with a cutesy collection of messy looks I’m more than used to. My favorite silhouette of the lot, the K.W. Boxy Coat, resonates with what I’m usually donning during wintertime. What I’m wondering is why it’s listed as retailing for $575 when it’s faux fucking fur. Am I mistaken? Is it actual K.W. fur? I’m missing something.

photos courtesy of openingceremony.com

Direct from Milan via satellite! My girl, Janies “Snuggles” Mack (B-LO, NY represent represent), for Francesco Scognamiglio Spring 2010
by Jackson Moad

photo courtesy of style.com

Seeing is optional at Francesco Scognamiglio’s Spring ’10 show.

Fashion East x Holly Fulton / Spring 2010 / London Fashion Week

Fashion East is one of my favorites since it acts as an initiative which heavily inspired my Parsons Senior Thesis. Sponsored by Topshop, Fashion East is made up of emerging designers whom need support before they contend for the NewGen sponsorship which offers them the funds for their own collection’s presentations. In its twelfth season, Fashion East’s collective didn’t dissapoint. Especially first down the runway, Ms. Holly Fulton. Her art-deco city prints and 60′s Cardin colors steeped even the most established designer’s collections this season. She made dresses look like pinball games! Congrats and welcome to the family.

photos courtesy of style.com & topshop blog

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Burberry Prorsum / Spring 2010 / London Fashion Week

What a far cry it is from Burberry’s F.O.B. signature check to view Christopher Bailey’s latest collection for the British legacy brand. The things this man can do with metallics are beyond words. Working with his favorite draped tulle, platform heels, paper-thin suedes, and sheeny silks, Bailey has this time around encrusted pieces with confetti-looking silvers and golds to create a celebration of a collection. In the past, he’s studded and quilted the classic trench, made them in prints, midnight blues and neons. For S/S 2010, Bailey chose a shortened camel version as prototype for the season’s numerous pastel variations. Since the young designer’s taken over as Creative Director for the line, he’s not only managed to modernize the iconic trench within a few seasons, but has reinvented the brand’s former stuffy aesthetic with a younger, less drab equivalent to fine English tailoring.

photos courtesy of style.com

Marios Schwab / Spring 2010 / London Fashion Week

Hm? Has Christopher Kane hit a dry spell? His latest presentation in London, along with his recent collaboration with high-street brand, Topshop, were a tad on the painful side. Thank goodness he’s revived Versus to display that notable eye of his. Snatching the crown for ‘most original this time around’ is Marios Schwab. I remember viewing some of his past season’s pieces up close last summer at Dover Street Market, thinking ‘why doesn’t this man get better press?’ Approx. one year later he’s the star of London’s ’25th Fashion Week.’ Like an equisite corpse flip-book with three differing images, Schwab has pieced together a hell of a collection. Can’t choose one thing? Wear three! His mismatched array of garments weren’t just strewn together without thought – they were seamlessly set to evoke the idea that fashion is never ‘one thing’, that chainmail and silk organza can in fact go together. Once and for all – give this guy his props!  He’s found a way to reflect while his industry’s on its back.

photos courtesy of style.com

Phillipe Tournaire will turn your dream house into a ring! The downside: it costs as much as the dream house itself. Imagine your own lil’ crib between your pinky and thumb. Pick an aquamarine as your pool, sapphire for your skylight – and you’re gold. Pimp gold.

Mark Fast & Mary Katrantzou / Spring 2010 / London Fashion Week

My favorite part of fashion month is finally here! With New York consistently missing the mark on most of its collections (Proenza looked like Lisa Frank, Wang changed his game, and Marc now for the fifth season’s been the over-hyped joke), some heavily-needed originality is saved for the UK’s ’25th Fashion Week Anniversary’. London always provides the new. I’ve already professed my love for English designers Mark Fast and Mary Katrantzou last season, so it’s no surprise I’m down with their latest collections which strongly follow on the tails of their breakthrough signature looks. This time around, Katrantzou used her high-def digi-prints to evoke Peter Phillips’ op-pop gloss. Fast opted for expanding on his tight-knits with plus-size models going in for the squeeze. Fast’s model’s Coke bottle shapes complimented his constrained-fit dresses perfectly, proving his attention to the human body is more than just a love affair. Peep both of the collection’s highlights below…

photos courtesy of style.com

Momma said knock you out

From left to right: Tom Binns sterling skull ring, Vintage gold medallion ring, Elizabeth & James knuckle ring, Vintage green costume ring, Vintage coral serpent ring, Margiela hollow ring, Chanel rhinestone interlocking-C ring, Robert Lee Morris sterling dome ring.

I know I’ve been on a Janet roll as of late, but, it’s because she’s finally getting the attention she deserves. Ann Demeulemeester even looks to be a Jackson fan! She used Janet unknowingly as an influence for her last season’s jewelry and accessories line. As a collaboration between the Belgian designer and artist Daniel Weinberger, this piece (above) unconsciously reeks of Janet’s janet. era (1993-1994). The vintage glass ladder necklace is also heavily inspired by Hermann Hesse’s The Glass Bead Game novel, piecing together fish bones with rows of metallic and glass beads to evoke traditional Native American craft.

Cooperwheat, the fresh-faced design label by British brothers Ben and Lee Cooperwheat (a stem off the former Cooperwheat Blundell line of the mid-90s) debuted stateside at The Maritime Hotel during New York Fashion Week. Shit’s crazy. They combine classical men’s tailoring with wacky urban cityscapes. Their fluorescent hued skyline screen-print coats and buttondowns win for Spring’s hottest print (thus far). The perfect pieces for repping yo city – New York, New York baby.

I would die for this Etro jacket. Repeat: die.

Designer Luis Porem has really done it! His RGB Glasses use refillable ink to change its frame’s colors. Feeling blue? Green with envy – without the cash for green shades? These are the frames for you. It’s too bad they only come in one shape ’cause if they were Windsors, they’d be the perfect relief to my hefty array of multi-colored round frames currently taking up much-needed space in my 2 x 4 NYC apartment.

Let it bleed.