Alas! One of my favorite indie rappers, Oddisee, is making hip hop cool again. Thank god. ‘Cause I was sitting here like a total nerd thinking it was cool all along.
Gareth Pugh kicked off Paris Fashion Week with a foggy surprise at the Palais de Tokyo this morning. With Rihanna posted in the front row, Pugh presented 34 unisex looks worth of his most wearable pieces to date. Switching his palette from black and white to slight hues of gray, the collection saw a new direction for Spring. He expanded on his leather Owens-inspired jackets and leggings with slits, shreds, and snoods aplenty. The feathered headpieces added an Elizabethan slant to his otherwise scuffed apoco-star warrior. Much like yesteryear’s Theyskens for Ricci, Pugh flirted with witchy coats reminiscent of Hocus Pocus. It’s nice to watch the line grow into reality.
I walked into the hair salon I go to back in Buffalo, NY a couple months ago and was greeted by a sign in the window saying “Balmain Hair.” Confused, I asked my hairdresser if it was the same Balmain as in Balmain by Christophe Decarnin. He looked even more confused than I was. He corrected my pronunciation, stating “it’s Bal-mane. The finest hair in the world.” Excuse me what? When I got home I googled the brand of weave and found that in fact it was the same Balmain that took the world by storm with its tennis-ball shoulder pads and glittering mini dresses (but obviously a licensed sect). Who knew Buffalo sold Balmain? Unbeweavable.
In anticipation for Spike Jonze’s Where The Wild ThingsAre movie, Opening Ceremony came up with a cutesy collection of messy looks I’m more than used to. My favorite silhouette of the lot, the K.W. Boxy Coat, resonates with what I’m usually donning during wintertime. What I’m wondering is why it’s listed as retailing for $575 when it’s faux fucking fur. Am I mistaken? Is it actual K.W. fur? I’m missing something.
Direct from Milan via satellite! My girl, Janies “Snuggles” Mack (B-LO, NY represent represent), for Francesco Scognamiglio Spring 2010
by Jackson Moad
My favorite music video director of all time, Mark Romanek, takes us behind-the-scenes of his NIN opus “Closer” from 1994. Known for Michael and Janet’s “Scream“, Janet and Q-Tip’s “Got ‘Til It’s Gone“, and Jay-Z’s “99 Problems,” Romanek has crafted some of the most memorable music videos of our time. Wish the medium still looked like this…Final product below.
Miss Nick Cannon must have dished some pretty penny to cop the sound of Bankhead, Atlanta a.k.a. Radio Killa’s signature narrative flow for her forthcoming album. The entire 17 track LP is written and produced by Dream team: Terius “The-Dream” Nash and Christopher “Tricky” Stewart, meaning that it’s all catchy, witty and clever. I’ve been off of Mariah since her Butterfly era, and thought Memoirs would be another sap-fest or “Touch My Body” disaster, but to my pleasant surprise – hearing the 39-year-old pop superstar do her best R.Kelly impression ended up being the most enjoyable thing I’ve heard since “Trapped In The Closet.” The writing on this album is some of The-Dream’s finest and though it makes me sad he wasn’t able to hoard them for himself, Mariah’s prissy-ness carries Dream and Tricky’s radio-ready legacy quite nicely. My favorite cut, “Up Out My Face”, is a guaranteed hit record that’ll take MC’s hit-count to what – 204? If we were two Lego blocks, not even the Harvard University graduating class of 2010 could put us back together again! Hear it here first.
You gon’ getta lotta calls ’cause I CC’d all your friends
This past summer, while I was smoldering at my V internship, my good friend Andreas Joseph traveled to the motherland a.k.a. Sweden to live the lagom life for himself, capturing it all on his Leica 35mm. The results are flooring. Here are some of my favorites from the must-see set. To view the entire portfolio and witness the next great photographer, go to Andreas’ flickr here.
Fashion East x Holly Fulton / Spring 2010 / London Fashion Week
Fashion East is one of my favorites since it acts as an initiative which heavily inspired my Parsons Senior Thesis. Sponsored by Topshop, Fashion East is made up of emerging designers whom need support before they contend for the NewGen sponsorship which offers them the funds for their own collection’s presentations. In its twelfth season, Fashion East’s collective didn’t dissapoint. Especially first down the runway, Ms. Holly Fulton. Her art-deco city prints and 60′s Cardin colors steeped even the most established designer’s collections this season. She made dresses look like pinball games! Congrats and welcome to the family.
I love a chick in a hoodie. It’s probably the reason I’m so caught up on Amerie’s latest video from her forthcoming album. It’s also probably because it’s a Mad Max-inspired romp in which a computer scans her eyes, she writhes around in bike shorts, and throws around karate chops in Margiela. The song’s only eh. I hate Sean Garrett’s writing, but the video’s styling makes up for it. And to think she could’ve waited for next season’s Rodarte to satisfy her apocalyptic look. Shit woulda been bomb.
Burberry Prorsum / Spring 2010 / London Fashion Week
What a far cry it is from Burberry’s F.O.B. signature check to view Christopher Bailey’s latest collection for the British legacy brand. The things this man can do with metallics are beyond words. Working with his favorite draped tulle, platform heels, paper-thin suedes, and sheeny silks, Bailey has this time around encrusted pieces with confetti-looking silvers and golds to create a celebration of a collection. In the past, he’s studded and quilted the classic trench, made them in prints, midnight blues and neons. For S/S 2010, Bailey chose a shortened camel version as prototype for the season’s numerous pastel variations. Since the young designer’s taken over as Creative Director for the line, he’s not only managed to modernize the iconic trench within a few seasons, but has reinvented the brand’s former stuffy aesthetic with a younger, less drab equivalent to fine English tailoring.
World Premiere: “Blue Period Picasso” – Peter, Bjorn, and John x Mick Boogie (featuring Naledge and Mickey Factz)
Think a marriage between a hip-hop fan and an indie rock follower wouldn’t work out? Think again. Swedish indie trio, Peter, Bjorn and John, have really struck a chord in the hip-hop community. So much so, mixtape DJ Mick Boogie’s spun their latest records into some killer posse cuts, featuring verses by Talib, Bun B, Black Milk, and GZA to name a few. Before you download the stellar genre-clash of a mixtape, take a listen to one of my favorite PBJ-Boogie blends: “Blue Period Picasso” here.
Hm? Has Christopher Kane hit a dry spell? His latest presentation in London, along with his recent collaboration with high-street brand, Topshop, were a tad on the painful side. Thank goodness he’s revived Versus to display that notable eye of his. Snatching the crown for ‘most original this time around’ is Marios Schwab. I remember viewing some of his past season’s pieces up close last summer at Dover Street Market, thinking ‘why doesn’t this man get better press?’ Approx. one year later he’s the star of London’s ’25th Fashion Week.’ Like an equisite corpse flip-book with three differing images, Schwab has pieced together a hell of a collection. Can’t choose one thing? Wear three! His mismatched array of garments weren’t just strewn together without thought – they were seamlessly set to evoke the idea that fashion is never ‘one thing’, that chainmail and silk organza can in fact go together. Once and for all – give this guy his props! He’s found a way to reflect while his industry’s on its back.
J.Cole’s Warm Up mixtape just keeps on giving. First “Lights Please,” now “Grown Simba.” Young Simba couldn’t wait to be the king. You’ve heard him on Jay’s Blueprint 3 album, heard him on S&M, and now hear J.Cole’s latest freshman class throwdown. Goodbye to the bottom, hello to the top.
Phillipe Tournaire will turn your dream house into a ring! The downside: it costs as much as the dream house itself. Imagine your own lil’ crib between your pinky and thumb. Pick an aquamarine as your pool, sapphire for your skylight – and you’re gold. Pimp gold.
Mark Fast & Mary Katrantzou / Spring 2010 / London Fashion Week
My favorite part of fashion month is finally here! With New York consistently missing the mark on most of its collections (Proenza looked like Lisa Frank, Wang changed his game, and Marc now for the fifth season’s been the over-hyped joke), some heavily-needed originality is saved for the UK’s ’25th Fashion Week Anniversary’. London always provides the new. I’ve already professed my love for English designers Mark Fast and Mary Katrantzou last season, so it’s no surprise I’m down with their latest collections which strongly follow on the tails of their breakthrough signature looks. This time around, Katrantzou used her high-def digi-prints to evoke Peter Phillips’ op-pop gloss. Fast opted for expanding on his tight-knits with plus-size models going in for the squeeze. Fast’s model’s Coke bottle shapes complimented his constrained-fit dresses perfectly, proving his attention to the human body is more than just a love affair. Peep both of the collection’s highlights below…
I’m a sucker for a good still life. I’m mega-obsessed with these by Geliografic that juxtapose the regular same ol’, same ol’ (flowers, fruits, food, …) with heavy-duty artillery. Thinking of commissioning one for my new apartment? Something to brighten up the nouveau establishment! Ha.
I like comedy in my hip-hop. And that’s exactly what Wayne’s latest sign, Nicky Minaj (a.k.a. “Nicki Lewinsky”), delivers on her multiple guest spots and mixtapes currently making rounds on the web. Underground since Harriet Tubman, Minaj boasts a similar flow to Wayne’s, which is the reason he signed the Queens native to his Young Money label earlier this year. The fact that female rappers have never achieved the heights attained by their male counterparts is an unfortunate truth Minaj will face, even if her lyrics do rival those of Wayne’s. The bitch is a beast with her smarty-pants flow and has been generating buzz since spitting on unofficial Ciara and Beyonce remixes. In turn, Minaj may have a chance at becoming femme-hop’s savior – that’s if Wayne lets her.
From left to right: Tom Binns sterling skull ring, Vintage gold medallion ring, Elizabeth & James knuckle ring, Vintage green costume ring, Vintage coral serpent ring, Margiela hollow ring, Chanel rhinestone interlocking-C ring, Robert Lee Morris sterling dome ring.
Hair and nails seem to be popular topics here on S&M. I’ve decided as a treat to dedicate a ‘do a week by featuring an incredible series of weave photos by David Yellen. This week – ‘Infamous Lisa B.’ a stylist from Oakland, CA, helps kick things off in a big way. Ms. Infamous and Margiela would get along famously.
I know I’ve been on a Janet roll as of late, but, it’s because she’s finally getting the attention she deserves. Ann Demeulemeester even looks to be a Jackson fan! She used Janet unknowingly as an influence for her last season’s jewelry and accessories line. As a collaboration between the Belgian designer and artist Daniel Weinberger, this piece (above) unconsciously reeks of Janet’s janet. era (1993-1994). The vintage glass ladder necklace is also heavily inspired by Hermann Hesse’s The Glass Bead Game novel, piecing together fish bones with rows of metallic and glass beads to evoke traditional Native American craft.
Cooperwheat, the fresh-faced design label by British brothers Ben and Lee Cooperwheat (a stem off the former Cooperwheat Blundell line of the mid-90s) debuted stateside at The Maritime Hotel during New York Fashion Week. Shit’s crazy. They combine classical men’s tailoring with wacky urban cityscapes. Their fluorescent hued skyline screen-print coats and buttondowns win for Spring’s hottest print (thus far). The perfect pieces for repping yo city – New York, New York baby.
Today’s song is dedicated to ma girl, Becky “B*Star” Myers, who when watching Andy Samberg and Jimmy Fallon at this year’s VMA’s sing the breakdown, had no idea what song it was from. It’s here to refresh your brain cells.
Designer Luis Porem has really done it! His RGB Glasses use refillable ink to change its frame’s colors. Feeling blue? Green with envy – without the cash for green shades? These are the frames for you. It’s too bad they only come in one shape ’cause if they were Windsors, they’d be the perfect relief to my hefty array of multi-colored round frames currently taking up much-needed space in my 2 x 4 NYC apartment.
Janet Jackson wowed crowds last night with a heart-stopping tribute performance to the King of Pop, Michael Jackson, at MTV’s Video Music Awards ceremony. She looked like a killer roller derby contestant-cum-Klaus Nomi caricature (knee pads? – yes!). And today, she serves up a taste of what’s to come with “Make Me.” Not a single, rather a “gift to her fans,” Janet offers up something of a throwback to a sound which made her family’s name so renowned – their rhythm, soul, and general love for a danceable groove – Ms. Jackson learned from the best (she played coke bottles on brother Michael’s original “Don’t Stop ‘Til You Get Enough” demo). But always a freak at heart, Janet had to sexify things (instead of Don’t stop ’til you get enough she says Don’t stop ’til you get it up), making the track sound like MJ’s fearless female counterpart doing dirty disco. I can only imagine some kill-yourself dance routine. I’m so glad the bitch is back! Finally she’s without JD. In other words, the girl’s in Control. But did we really need Mike to croak for us to understand that? To watch her performance from this years VMA’s, click ‘keep reading’ below.
Song of the Day: “You Called and Told Me” – Jeff Redd
Halle Berry brokethrough in the 1991 film Strictly Business with the help of the hit soundtrack single “You Called and Told Me” and its video. Jeff Redd is today a little-known ’90s leftover whereas Halle’s an Oscar-toting superstar… guess it worked for her. Jeff’s still having trouble booking the local saloon.
(It’s fall already? Oy.) Found my winter scarf! The cashmere/silk blend graphic looks like it could be the emblem for The Avengers with its bowler hat and crossing umbrellas. Call it ‘Hackett for Ralph Fiennes’.
I’m always looking to expand my hefty ring collection with funky shapes, ethnic details, and chilly glow, and with the help of Boucheron’s former creative director, Solange Azagury, it’s uber easy. That is, if I had the $1,500 to $40,000 to shell out on any one item from her solo line. She opened her first retail store on Madison this past June and has seen great success even in such a cloud-filled retailscape. Have a peek at some of the rings I’ve been eyeing.
World Premiere: “Baby By Me” – 50 Cent (Feat. Ne-Yo)
50 bought Polow‘s best new beat. The thing is it’s another one of his “Ayo Technology” jokes. 50 can really only kill people – surely not have them. This time, he partners with a phony Ne-Yo (singing about playing in that thang) hook to play daddy. But I really don’t need to hear 50 rap about his inches, it’s Polow‘s farting, gushing, and squirting background that’s the molten.
People have been asking me (as if I had open contact with the man), what’s happened to Hov? Jay’s latest disc is crap – a disappointment to say the least. Although, so was his last one. But his last one [The Black Album] was some of his greatest work and spawned one of the most imperial mash-ups of all-time [The Grey Album]: so, in giving him that, dissecting the only semi-Hov-caliber tracks on the new album should be easy. The two singles thus far do use some pretty researched stuff – hear the Kanye-helmed “Run This Town,” for instance – it’s got Greek rock band The 4 Levels of Existence’s “Someday In Athens.” “D.O.A. (Death of Autotune)” loops around with a 1970 indie jazz courtesy of No I.D.
Probably my favorite foreign fashion glossy helps to close the decade off in style. “In celebration of this decade in fashion AnOther Magazine has paired the most influential designers with fashion’s finest accomplices; the actresses, models, musicians and muses who inspire with their sense of style and the power of their image. The fashion houses granted AnOther Magazine personal access to their archives and the fashion editors carefully paired each icon with a look by one designer from the past 10 years. Two portfolios by Craig McDean and Hedi Slimane were co-ordinated over 18 months, with shoots in Paris, London, New York and Los Angeles, involving thousands of conversations between hundreds of people around the world.” – AnOther Magazine
Jackson Moad. You know? The recent Parsons grad with the insane shoe and accessory portfolio! Steven Klein’s latest shoot featured in Vogue Hommes Japan (below) sports a rather similar appeal to Jackson’s senior IDC thesis piece. S&M in this case means sadism & masochism, not Smoke & Mirrors. Take a peek at some pics of his thesis here. And Mr. Klein, for next time — the name’s Jackson Moad.
In her first-ever interview since Michael’s passing, music icon Janet Jackson sits down with Harper’s Bazaar to confirm she’s done with JD (Jermaine Dupri), not taking custody of MJ’s kids, and has a movie, album, and book in the works (all planned out before her brother’s death – don’t worry). It’s no publicity stunt this time. She’s been thrown back into the spotlight for obvious reasons and it’s her timing that so resonates with her modestly poignant persona. While LaToya and Jermaine have been accused of publicity-humping the situation, Janet’s taken her time to heal. As she states in the exclusive article, her tonic is her work and finds that the only way to tackle her grief is by keeping busy. Free from what many fans saw as her ultimate decline (JD’s presence in her work and love life), Janet seems positioned for a life after love. Her creativity’s always flourished when times have been tough (The Velvet Rope, anyone?). She will return to the stage this Sunday to open the MTV VMA’s with a special, eagerly-awaited Michael Jackson tribute. Of all her siblings, Janet has forever been the most subdued. It’s in times of trauma that displays people’s innermost inklings and it’s in her shielded response to the loss that’s cemented her as the most real of her clan. I’m happy she’s decided to open up so cordially. Everyone’s been asking — what’s Janet’s take? Now you have it. Wishing my girl all the best. The issue hits stands September 22, 2009.
Imagine filming your hair grow for one year. This video by Christoph Rehage documents just that and more during his yearlong trek (’07-’08) through China. Pretty gnarly.
I’m assuming that since the “pro.nails” post is still seated at the top of the blog’s most read, it won’t bother having SWV become a repeat offender. Their debut album, It’s About Time, entered the ring back in 1992, boasting early production credits/backing vocals from a young Pharrell Williams (of The Neptunes) and a lucky duet with Michael Jackson (“Right Here/Human Nature”). “I’m So Into You” is of the sister’s cheekier cuts. Post-New Jack era, their deep, sensual soul captivated pop, R&B, and adult contemporary listeners with “Weak”, but it’s songs like “Into You” (and their affinity for acrylics) that’s gained the Oakland natives their true following.
My good friend Chase Cohl’s feather headdress line, littledoe, has just added 60′s-era Janis hats to its roster. With a middle finger up to traditional fashion seasons and trends, littledoe offers ephemeral-free headpieces and floppy felt hats year round for the most serious folk-chicer. Think Chris Robinson meets Sacagawea.
One MC. One DJ. Last year’s best hip-hop album – hands down. Released on the little-known Raw Poetix label, The Only Color That Matters Is Green combines Pacewon’s Rakim-esque flow with beatsmith Green’s accompanying concrete rhythms. On “Children Sing” (below), Green splits children’s choir chants into unrecognizably colorful sonic collages of adolescent “ooh’s” and “ahh’s.” Pacewon graces Green’s symphonic street backdrops with unpretentious ease. Paying no mind to current hip-hop’s confused state of autotune and Grey Goose, Pacewon & Mr. Green achieve heights with their homegrown sound. Forget the mainstream, these dudes are the closest we’ll get to forgetting Flo-Rida ever happened. Hear it here first:
1 “Four Quarters” – White collar, blue collar. I holler. You holler. Let’s get together. Four quarters make a dollar. Middle America’s Confucius raps on Billy Bob Thornton, Wall Street, and food stamps.
2 “So Straight” – Fruits, vegetables, champagne and OJ. Sounds good to me.
World Premiere: “End of Your World (Mama’s Back)” – J*Davey
This group just finished their stint performing with Prince and are in the midst of mixing their major label debut which features this track.
“With a diverse array of influences, eclectic twosome J*Davey — female vocalist Jack Davey and producer Brook D’Leau — deliberately evade the narrow categories of what urban music should sound like, not to mention that they defy normal conventions of pop music. Drawing equally from neo-soul, new wave, funk, and hip-hop, their melting pot of electronic soul and dance have made music-goers try to classify them somewhere between neo-soulstress Erykah Badu and new wave punks Talking Heads.” – Cyril Cordor
It’s not your imagination (and surely it’s not Weezer), the mups did just say I’m about to pop. They’ve been edited into singing Escort’s disco-drenched “All Through The Night” through piecing together various retro Muppet Show clips. I pretty much have been watching this video every day for a year and still haven’t gotten enough.
I’m in love with Bela Borsodi‘s still-lifes featured everywhere from Another Magazine to The New York Times. I’m for any photographer who eases the eye into seeing life differently. Borsodi’s portfolio does just that with wit, breathing new life into the otherwise mundane [still-life] medium.
I’ve always known Natalie Portman and I had certain things in common: we’re both Jews, were brought up in suburbs, look like the opposite sex, and now.. she admits to being a hip-hop hag! We must really share genes. Check out her latest chat with Jake Gyllenhaal in this month’s Interview where she admits to liking Carvel over Baskin-Robbins and enjoying nothing more than some good ol’ dirty rap. Don’t believe me? Proof is here.
Keith Sweat’s greatest hits compilation satisfies even the toughest of quiet storm connoisseurs. His nasally voice has the ability to lay down the finest of broads without cost of wine or dine. He’ll wind her weave off, open up her negligee, and pour candle wax down the small of her back without any effort on your part. Nobody can do it like Sweat.
Speaking of “chain.male,” peep Greek designer Ioannis Dimitrousis’ most recent collection “Untitled” and gawk with me. It’s as if he took my Burberry Prorsum spike bracelet and melded it into a chainmail dress. Insane.
I’m ecstatic to see Steven Meisel’s been peeping Smoke & Mirrors… Take a look at this month’s Vogue Italia covers and tell me he wasn’t under the Dickens influence I plug non-stop. The Oliver-inspired cover looks pop in performance. Undeniably Twist-ed, the models don worn-out top hats, raggedy knapsacks, torn burlap gloves and a mismatched mentality exemplified within the storybook’s pickpocket spirit. Tip your hat to the original homeless chic-er, Fagin, who inspires my every day.
It’s almost Friday (a.k.a. the end of my back-to-school week) which means it’s time to pump some Zhane classix. It must be that knock that so evokes the early 90′s house party vibe… or their ridiculously manicured hairdo’s a la House Party? Either-or, Zhane has that uncanny ability to transport whomever back to ’94 when things seemed just a wee bit groovier.
If the Three Six post wasn’t enough hilarity for your week then hit up Triple C’s latest vid, where cooked lobster and Rick Ross’ titties make up for the back-to-school rush. Turn that frown upside down.
Capes are the shit. They always have been. Always will be. That is – if you know how to fly (which I do). Why else would you wear one really? Every superhero has one, the Papa rocks one, the Count, and look – so does Irina in Dazed! (They all fly as hell) I’m telling you, try one sometime and you’ll be glad you did.
photos courtesy of style.com
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